Thursday, July 14, 2005

What to Wear in Bhutan: Men

The gho is an ancient Bhutanese garment worn by men and boys. As in some cultures (Scotland, Fiji, others?) the men's garment is a tailored-looking skirt below the waist - which soon looks totally second nature to us. They are very comfortable, warm in winter, and stylish. Don wears gho about half the time to work, and the kids will wear a uniform gho in school. By royal decree, all citizens wear gho and kira when in public and to their places of employment, but they don't always wear them when at home, or running errands; this time around I have seen many more Bhutanese men in western clothing out on the street, and there are many shops selling jeans and T-shirts. Or, to be casual, a man might pull his arms out of the sleeves and tie them around his waist. Nevertheless, for men the gho is as correct a clothing as trousers/dress shirt/tie or a business suit. It is a long robe, with complicated seams, and putting it on is at least a two-person job - and I'm so lousy at helping Don that usually one of the Gadho's household helpers who has a free minute comes over and assists. Underneath it you would wear a T-shirt or short-sleeved shirt and shorts. Then you have either long white cuffs pinned to the inside of the sleeve, or a loose white shirt that is basically just a connected pair of sleeves. To put on the gho, tuck the right front panel into the left, line up the hems, and hold it at the sides. Then fold the extra fabric towards the back, and hoist up the front until it hangs straight at the knee. Fasten the waist with a tightly tucked long woven belt with fringe (the kera), and make sure in the back that the sides are neatly tucked so that they hang vertically. Turn back the sleeves so a nice crisp deep white cuff is showing. The top part of the gho, as it blouses over the kera, makes a pouch/pocket. Finish off with dark or argyle knee socks and dark dress shoes.

If you are going to an official place, like court, or the Parliament, or to a temple, then you need one additional item: a raw silk or linen scarf called a kabney, with very long fringe. This is draped over the shoulders and tied on the left shoulder.